How To Repair a Rusted Core Support
Well maybe it’s not sexy, but how about non-rusty? While most rodders leave the unseen alone, this is one area that needs to be tended to. The core support doesn’t just hold the radiator; it is the entire basis of structure for the front of your ride. This is the part that holds the fenders square and keeps everything bolted to the frame, a pretty important job.
After decades of weather, road grime, leaky radiators and old batteries, the core support on most muscle cars has taken a lot of abuse. Eventually it needs some repair. One specific example is the front end of this 1971 Buick GS convertible. GM A-bodies are home to some of the worst core support rust. The battery was located directly over the passenger side frame mount, which leads to a loose front clip. The bolt was completely gone on the 71. While pulling the engine for a rebuild, it was noticed that the entire front clip could lift off the frame; this signaled it was time for some repairs.
Mr. Buick of Topeka, Kansas, manufactures a few repro parts for Buicks, one of which is a core support rebuild kit for either left or right hand sides. Both kits include lower core and side sections as well as a new bushing box. The new metal is thicker than stock, looks like factory, and comes complete with locating holes.
Each side takes about 3 hours to install, and requires precise cutting and welding. You will also need to cut quite a few spot welds.
Cost:
$125 per kit per side
Body filler $9.85\quart
120-grit sand paper $0.50\sheet
PPG DP90 epoxy primer $34.95\quart
![1. The original core support has faced over 30 years of metal-eating abuse. The frame bolts are gone and the battery box has fused to the inner fender and core support.](https://i0.wp.com/streettechmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/013.jpg?resize=940%2C705&ssl=1)
1. The original core support has faced over 30 years of metal-eating abuse. The frame bolts are gone and the battery box has fused to the inner fender and core support.
![2. Several bolts required grinding out, as the heads had long been rounded off by rust. This is 3 layers of metal: the battery tray, core support and the inner fender.](https://i0.wp.com/streettechmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/023.jpg?resize=940%2C705&ssl=1)
2. Several bolts required grinding out, as the heads had long been rounded off by rust. This is 3 layers of metal: the battery tray, core support and the inner fender.
![3. Once the support is out of the car and pressure washed, the damage becomes apparent. A total replacement will be needed.](https://i0.wp.com/streettechmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/033.jpg?resize=940%2C705&ssl=1)
3. Once the support is out of the car and pressure washed, the damage becomes apparent. A total replacement will be needed.
![4. The repair kits from MrBuick.com come with the side and lower support metal and a new bushing box. The box metal is twice as thick as the original and should last a long time.](https://i0.wp.com/streettechmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/043.jpg?resize=940%2C705&ssl=1)
4. The repair kits from MrBuick.com come with the side and lower support metal and a new bushing box. The box metal is twice as thick as the original and should last a long time.
![5. Using a straight edge and some chalk, Toby Ramsey, of Ramsey Auto Body, marks where the old metal gets sliced off.](https://i0.wp.com/streettechmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/053.jpg?resize=940%2C705&ssl=1)
5. Using a straight edge and some chalk, Toby Ramsey, of Ramsey Auto Body, marks where the old metal gets sliced off.
![6. A die grinder and cut-off wheel make quick work of the old rusted metal. The core is trimmed as little as possible.](https://i0.wp.com/streettechmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/063.jpg?resize=940%2C705&ssl=1)
6. A die grinder and cut-off wheel make quick work of the old rusted metal. The core is trimmed as little as possible.
![7. The spot welds are punched drilled with a spot weld cutter. This special bit cuts the welds and leaves a hole so the new metal can be tacked on.](https://i0.wp.com/streettechmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/073.jpg?resize=940%2C705&ssl=1)
7. The spot welds are punched drilled with a spot weld cutter. This special bit cuts the welds and leaves a hole so the new metal can be tacked on.
![8. With the old metal removed, the new parts are clamped into place. The lower panel requires trimming, so the panel is marked and removed.](https://i0.wp.com/streettechmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/083.jpg?resize=940%2C705&ssl=1)
8. With the old metal removed, the new parts are clamped into place. The lower panel requires trimming, so the panel is marked and removed.
![10. The bushing box and the other pieces are sprayed with a weld-thru primer. This keeps the parts from forming rust after they are welded.](https://i0.wp.com/streettechmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/103.jpg?resize=940%2C705&ssl=1)
10. The bushing box and the other pieces are sprayed with a weld-thru primer. This keeps the parts from forming rust after they are welded.
![12. Next, the entire assembly is clamped in place to the core body. The new metal has alignment holes for correct placement on the core body.](https://i0.wp.com/streettechmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/123.jpg?resize=940%2C705&ssl=1)
12. Next, the entire assembly is clamped in place to the core body. The new metal has alignment holes for correct placement on the core body.
![13. The parts are now tack welded in place. Once they are tacked, a solid bead is run down the seam, being careful to let it cool every 1\2-3\4” so it doesn’t warp.](https://i0.wp.com/streettechmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/133.jpg?resize=940%2C705&ssl=1)
13. The parts are now tack welded in place. Once they are tacked, a solid bead is run down the seam, being careful to let it cool every 1\2-3\4” so it doesn’t warp.
![17. A DA-sander levels the filler and feathers the edges; 120-grit is all that is needed for this project.](https://i0.wp.com/streettechmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/172.jpg?resize=940%2C705&ssl=1)
17. A DA-sander levels the filler and feathers the edges; 120-grit is all that is needed for this project.
![18. For the backside, a bead of seam-sealer fills the pinholes and keeps moisture out, preventing future problems.](https://i0.wp.com/streettechmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/181.jpg?resize=940%2C705&ssl=1)
18. For the backside, a bead of seam-sealer fills the pinholes and keeps moisture out, preventing future problems.
![19. A little PPG DP90 epoxy primer completes the repair with a smooth, flat finish that will look right at home in any musclecar.](https://i0.wp.com/streettechmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/191.jpg?resize=940%2C705&ssl=1)
19. A little PPG DP90 epoxy primer completes the repair with a smooth, flat finish that will look right at home in any musclecar.
Sources
High Torque Racing
Ramsey Auto Body
(405) 743-3107
Nice write up!